Sunday, 3 March 2013

21.02.2013 (Marie) - Last day in the ice

Thursday 21.02.2013

All the benthos people meet in the red saloon around 7 am. The Agassiz trawl was planned for 6.45 am, but we are soon informed that there is a delay of a few hours, due to ice conditions. When we look outside, there´s indeed ice everywhere around, no more areas of free water can be seen.  A few hours later, the chief scientist announces that the station is cancelled. In such conditions, it´s just not possible to deploy the trawl, it would get stuck into ice.
All day-long, the ice-breaker is very slowly moving back and forth to break the thick ice-plates in front of her. No open-areas in the horizon anymore, just very large and smaller ice-plates, icebergs and islands. The weather is great. Everyone is enjoying the first sunny day in a long time. It really changes the view of the landscape, everything´s even more amazing under the bright light and a whole blue sky.  It has its effect on people too, everyone´s reboosted, full of energy again and a happy atmosphere is quickly spreading. This day was the best one so far. I think I´ll keep a long-lasting memory of it. As we knew it would be the last day in the ice, everyone was there, gathering on the deck, talking, taking pictures, staring at the incredible sights, all day-long. It was great to be all together outside. With the very foggy weather of the last week, I sometimes even didn´t think of going outside and always working inside in the ship, you tend to forget you´re in Antarctica! But that day, there was no doubt we were striking against the extreme conditions of the South Pole, even if it was in a really peaceful atmosphere for us, enjoying the daylight on the deck.  Usually, the boat seems to progress really easily in pack ice, breaking it as if it was made of glass. But this time, the ice was apparently much thicker, as the boat had every time to go back and forth a few times in order to break one plate.  I had no doubt it would at last make it through the ice, it just takes a much longer time. 

We saw a lot of islands around us. Some of them the same as we had seen before in Erebus and Terror Gulf, like huge and steep rocks with an icy top, others much larger and elongated, smooth and covered with snow, sometimes confounded with clouds in the far. Sometimes a lonely seal was spotted besides or in front of the boat. They really don´t seem to care about us at all. That´s quite surprising as they most probably never saw a ship in their entire lives. They just sleep deeply on ice-plates just in front of a moving noisy giant ship and get away really at the last moment, lazily and looking slightly irritated, when the boat is hitting the plate they´re sitting on. I´m always afraid that the boat would hit them as they don´t move fast enough, but it never does. We´re just strangers in their territory, disturbing their quietness. Penguins are shyer, running clumsily on the ice when we approach or sliding gently on their bellies. 

We stay all afternoon in the sun, getting in just to eat and quickly out again afterwards. The temperature is around -5°C and gets colder as the night approaches. It´s really difficult to stay out for a long time without the appropriate equipment. I borrow a red AWI suit, made for going on the ice, and the matching orange boots. It´s not very fashionable, except maybe in space (we all look like red ice-cosmonauts), but very effective. I manage to stay outside until the end with a few survivors, the others progressively went back inside. We admire the sunset  above this incredible scenery. The sky turns successively pink, then violet, then dark blue to almost black at the very end. We can see the full moon above the islands and icebergs.



We want to stay until the boat makes it into open-water. We can see it very close but it takes such a long time to get there. Back and forth, we can see the triangular shape of the front side of the boat on the ice-plate that we´re trying to break. Back and forth, another mark besides, it seems that we don´t make any progress at all. But the pressure on the ice is increasing everytime until we see a first crack spreading in front. Back and forth again and the crack opens the plate in two, offering a narrow passage that the ice-breaker has to widen. The breaking of the last plate feels like a victory. We´re still a few on the deck, shivering in our red suits or all wrapped in blankets. The sky turned dark and the light spots of the boat are on, spotting the icebergs in front. It´s almost 1.30 am when the Polarstern is finally released from its ice-prison. We then all run immediately inside. We made it until the end and it was definitely worth it, but it´s really getting too cold. 

(Marie)

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