Thursday 24 January 2013

22.01.2013 – The wild west side of the Strait of Magellan


22.01.2013 (Tuesday). As a consequence of my sunburns, I am loosing the skin of my face like a snake. At 08:00, The Polarstern is finally leaving Punta Arenas. Just the time to take some last pictures, and the great adventure on the southern seas is starting... Exceptionnally the Polartsern crosses the Strait of magellan by the west side. We have fantastic views of moutains with patches of snow. It is a bit windy;  large clouds are drifting across a blue sky. At 09:00, we have a briefing concerning the helicopters in the conference room (unfortunately this will probably concern neither me nor Marie). 10:00 : we have an informal discussion in the blue saloon (the room for important meetings), concerning the area to explore. Indeed it is now definitely clear that it will be absolutely impossible to access the Larsen area due to the important ice coverage of the Western Weddell Sea. No plan is fixed at this stage, but it seems that we will sample somewhere around the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. Maybe near Joinville island or a bit farther west. 13:00 :  I have an appointment to see if it is possible to saw the lander in two parts and to solder it afterwards without compromising its functioning. After examination and discussion with the chief engineer Olaf Zieman, this seems possible. However I send an e-mail to Belgian colleagues, to have their approbation. 15:00 : we have an exercice with the life jacket on the helideck (i.e. the helicopter deck). In the afternoon, the landscapes of the Strait of Magellan are becoming wilder and wilder, as we enter its narrowest part. Absolutely no trace of man. Savage mountains, sometimes almost totally rocky with scarce vegetation, sometimes with dense woods of the subantarctic beech Nothofagus antarcticus, often with snow at their top. 18:30 : we are approaching the open sea and I can see quite a number of albatrosses from the window of my cabin. In the night, as we are leaving the coast, the ship starts to pitch. 


The Polarstern in the western part of the Strait of Magellan.


The western side of the Strait of Magellan.


Testing life jackets.

(Cédric)


That's it : the Polarstern is heading to Antarctica with a whole bunch of enthusiastic scientists on board. The floating giant is moving faster than I expected. Everyone is gathering on the deck for most of the day because the landscapes are indeed very spectacular in the Strait. Long stretches of untouched mountains and islands, sometimes green, sometimes rocky, sometimes so high that a cap of snow is covering the top. It seems a bit unreal to me, it looks like synthetic  images in an animation movie. We all take a lot of pictures of course. Tonight, we should leave the protected channel of the Magellan Strait to enter the rougher open-waters. 

We have a security briefing about helicopter safety for those who will get the chance to fly over the Southern Ocean with the whale watchers. During the afternoon, an evacuation training is organized. The loud emergency alarm is heard in every part of the boat. It means that we have to dress warmly, put our lifejackets on and gather on the helideck for counting of the people. Somebody has to put on the survival suit for demonstration: a thick, waterproof suit which covers the entire body and is designed for surviving about 8h in 2°C water. Then we head towards our designed lifeboats. 

Many discussions concern also the planning of the expedition. The Larsen areas where we were initially planning to go are indeed completely inaccessible due to the ice condition. We’ll have to concert and reach a compromise about a B-plan. Some propositions are made: to the border of the ice on the east side, or on the west side of the peninsula which is ice-free. 

In the evening, the movement of the boat is clearly getting more intense: we reached open-water! I need some time to adjust to this perpetual movement and sometimes wish it would stop for a while, but I finally find it quite nice to fall asleep, gently balanced by the waves. 

(Marie)

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